Derwent Pencil Museum, Keswick: A Lake District Day Out Steeped in History
The Derwent Pencil Museum in Keswick tells a story that begins much closer to Rosthwaite than most visitors realise. The graphite that launched the world's pencil industry was first discovered at Seathwaite, deep in the Borrowdale valley, back in the 1550s. From those humble beginnings in the fells above the Royal Oak grew a craft that made Keswick the home of the first pencil, and this small but fascinating museum tells the whole tale. It's also one of the best rainy-day options in the northern Lakes, which is worth knowing when the weather closes in.
From graphite to global brand
The museum charts the history of pencil making from a modest cottage industry to the modern-day home of Derwent, the Cumberland Pencil Company, which has been producing pencils in Keswick since 1832. You enter through a replica of the graphite mine where it all started, setting the scene for a journey through carefully restored machinery, archive photographs and displays that explain how a pencil is actually made. One detail tends to stick with people: in the mid-18th century, graphite was, measure for measure, a more valuable commodity than gold, which is why the Borrowdale mines were once guarded around the clock.
The exhibits worth the trip
For all its modest size, the museum has some real showstoppers. The most intriguing is the collection of secret wartime pencils, specially made during the Second World War to conceal tiny maps and compasses that could help prisoners of war escape occupied Europe. Then there's one of the largest coloured pencils in the world, measuring almost eight metres and far more striking in person than in photographs. Add the Queen's Diamond Jubilee Pencil and a set of delicate miniature pencil sculptures, and there's plenty to hold the attention of adults and children alike.
More than just a museum
Opened in 1981, the museum now welcomes more than 80,000 visitors a year, and it has grown into a proper little visitor complex. There's a Derwent fine art shop stocking the full range of pencils, from pick and mix singles to professional sketching sets, plus a coffee shop serving homemade cakes. Seasonal art workshops and children's activity sheets keep younger visitors engaged, and the quizzes have a way of drawing families in for far longer than they expected. Dogs on leads are welcome too, with seating in the outdoor area of the café.
Practical bits worth knowing
The museum sits on the edge of Keswick town centre beside the River Greta, at Southey Works, CA12 5NG, a short walk from the main shops. Tickets are bought on site rather than online, so there's no need to book ahead, which makes it an easy last-minute plan. There's a pay and display car park alongside, though note it's run separately from the museum. Most visitors find an hour or two is plenty to see everything at a comfortable pace.
Stay in the valley where it all began
There's something fitting about basing your trip in the very valley where the story starts. The Royal Oak in Rosthwaite sits just a short drive from Keswick, deep in the Borrowdale countryside where that first graphite was found. It makes a warm and comfortable base for exploring the town's attractions by day and returning to good food and a quiet valley by night, whether the sun's out or the rain has sent you looking for somewhere dry.